Andrea's Last Day

    Andrea and I were in Paro, and decided to let my friend Palden guide us around. We drove part way up a road, then walked most of the altitude gain to Sanga Choekor Goenpa. It is a monastery with a fairly large group of monks studying Buddhism. It is considered a“Buddhist Institute.”The view of the valley is spectacular. I had seen the goenpa from several places as it is visible from Chelila Pass and from the valley bottom. Palden's sister invited us to lunch as they were having their annual puja.

      Andrea was confused by the goings on that day so I will try to explain clearly . . . Annual puja is a ritual where the monks come into the home and spend the day, or night and day(s) chanting and blessing the house and its occupants. It has been explained to me that the obstacles for the following year are “removed”. Extended family comes home to participate, cook, eat and stay up late visiting, drinking ara and playing cards. The wage earners of the extended family contribute financially to the event as it is expensive to pay the monks. At other pujas I have seen between two and twelve monks.

      We arrive and people are hanging their heads out windows with criosity. Andrea is so beautiful (blonde hair), they are pleased to meet us. We are introduced to sisters, aunts, mothers, sister cousins, sister in-laws and the same on the male side. After using the toilet that is in a separate but semi-attached addition to the traditional home, we are ushered into the main room. The bukari (wood stove) is burning fiercely, the television is on and everyone is seated on the floor in a circle around the perimeter of the room. Food is on the floor in the middle of the room and they are about to eat. More introductions. We are ushered into the next room,which is the altar room where the monks have been chanting. The floor is littered with rice, as are the cushions we sit on. Chanting and blessing appears to involve a fair amount of scattering of raw rice.

We are served alone, but Palden stays with us to explain the food, make sure we eat and enjoy. Tea, biscuits and zao (dried puffed and fried rice that goes in your tea or is eaten from the palm of your hand) first, then rice and three spicy hot curries. More tea.

We sat on the rug to the right 

The altar was elaborate. Both Andrea and I took photos. Palden took us for a tour of the property. Apple trees, chorten, gardens and three houses; two traditional, one apartment building. All of the homes were built for the daughters as traditionally property is passed from mother to daughter. It was cold out and I was struck by the contrast between our cosy life at the hotel, with hot running water and hot water bottles in our beds, and the cold concrete room with running cold water, room to bathe from a bucket and an indian-style toilet. I had already made the transition from my daily life of cold concrete homes to cosy western warmth.

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