Classroom Uplift

  Saturday we have 2 classes in the morning, then a program or SUPW Socially Useful and Productive Work.  Nothing big on the program today and my class 9B wanted to paint the classroom.  So we did.  It was controlled chaos, although I have no idea who was controlling it.  We used "distemper" paint which does wash out with water.  Luckily.  Because it was everywhere.  It took as long to wash the desks that were used to stand on and the floor as it did to paint 2 coats. I cannot imagine how the students will clean their national dress and their bodies!! 

Classroom BEFORE 

The gang helping and hindering :) 

As I was stumbling through the fog back to my quarters, other groups were building pathways, woking in their gardens, practicing dance for teacher's day, and helping resolve the very aromatic problem in the day toilets. All this appears so normal to me now and I cannot imagine my Canadian students in this situation. 

     I have written 4 blog entries over the past week, but ave not had an opportunity to post. I hope readers can imagine a day between each posting :)

Friday Night

Friday at 4 pm we generally have professional development, because of course Friday is not the end of the week, as we teach on Saturday.  This week and apparently last week we did not have pro d.  Today, however, the principal brought us together to say thanks to those who took over when many teachers went for election duty.  Momos.  Yum.  they are little wheat flour pockets with veg or meat mixture in the middle.  Served with a very hot chill paste on the side.  I ate the middle out of the meat ones, as I cannot eat wheat, and hate missing the momos. 

Afterwards I walked to Tshimisham (about 30 minutes one way) to get some cash from the ATM, than back up.  Although I left as the fog was rolling in, it rolled out and was a very pleasant evening.  I walked up the hill with a student who told  me all about her twin sister who lives at home in a different village.   They are 16, in grade 9 (started school at 7 years of age). The twin no longer attends school as she has problems with one eye.  So many students live with a sister, brother in law, uncle or someone else in the family that looks after them.  The young teachers all have at least one sister, brother, niece or nephew living with them to attend school.  It is assumed that a teacher will take better care of the child and supervise their studies better than the parents.  Also, remaining at home means the students have duties around the home, whereas staying with a teacher they may cook, but mostly they will do homework. 

Bought veggies on the way home. I feel very fortunate to be in a village with vegetables.  I have to admit I miss the asparagus that I had every day in Paro last week.  I get it here occasionally and feel completely spoiled when it arrives.  I used my new pressure cooker for the first time.  I bought it a couple of weeks ago after a yet another failed attempt at dal, and several burning events of yummy food in my kitchen.  You would have laughed.  I was in the kitchen scrubbing clothes when the whistle went off the first time.  I ducked and stayed down.  It must have been a silly sight.  My dinner ended up being lentil dal, red rice with butter and papa dams.  Delicious. OK so I am lacking on greens, but will make up for it tomorrow. 

Today I took photos of my students in small groups to send to the teachers/classes in Canada that are also receiving the biographies my students wrote.  It was fun.  They look so serious in their photos. They are pretty excited to connect with Canadian students.  

Teacher's day is May 2nd.  There is a cultural program that the students will put on for us and I think they are planning a lunch.  There is no budget so they are giving up two meat meals this month, one lunch and one dinner, in order to provide food for teachers and day scholars. The teachers have performed for the past few years but the leader transferred away this year so things are moving very slowly.  A few years ago a Japanese volunteer teacher also worked with the staff to do a traditional Japanese dance.  Therefore I am to lead/teach a Canadian dance.  Ha.  I have decided to do the chicken dance, mostly because of my highly developed musical skills. And it will be lots of fun. 

THREE Months

Our three month anniversary of arrival was last week, when 6 of us were together in Thimphu. 

Jonesey you were right - three months and it feels like home.  When I talk about my village or my "quarter" it is now called HOME.  Cannot think of another place I should be at the moment. 

Lovely Paro

Woke up to a beautiful day.  Partly clear, sunny and warm.  Dave took some really nice photos so I thought I would post one or two.  The Paro valley seemed so brown and desolate when I arrived in January.  Now it seems so lush and beautiful with the planting of the rice seedlings and the greening of the hills.

Election Day

 

Me in my "buddy helmet"

After the picnic

Great day

     Today was the election for National Council.  There will be 2 more elections, one in June and one later.  So everything is closed. Towns are like ghost towns and there is very little traffic, except for tourists.   

     Dave and I decided to go to Chelela pass, the 3,988 metre high pass between Paro and Ha.  We went on his motorcycle.  A 180 cc Bajaj dirt bike.  I really was not sure how that would be, but one never travels any faster than 35 km per hour so it was more than pleasant.  I loved it. The views were spectacular although it was a cloudy day.  Unfortunately we did not have any views of Jomlohari.  The road is a little road that winds up through changing forests and soil.  The soil starts as bright red clay and changes colour.  At the top it is black. The road reminded me a bit of the Idaho Peak road, except well surfaced all of the way.
     At the pass there was a group of men from India taking pictures and we became the focal point - perhaps it was the bike.  We were not carrying cameras so the photos were taken on my tiny cell phone.    We wandered to the prayer flags and were invited to what appeared to be a Bhutanese picnic.  It was in fact a group from the Paro College of Teacher education.  One of the lecturers had lost his father or grandfather and a group of his students were there to erect 80 to 90 prayer flags.  They fed us lunch and tried to feed us ara and beer.  

Posing with and for the tourists from India, my Bhutan socks from Aunt Linda as mitts 

     
  We ended up checking back into the Gangtey Palace as we were tired and did not want to travel.  Walked through Paro thinking of eating a cheaper supper, but everything was closed.  We went out after dinner for some evening photos.

Dzong at night

Weekend Recovery

Tango Monastery

 I had to recover my voice and have had an amazing rest.  On the Zabdrung Kuchoe holiday, which is the death anniversary of the Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, I was in Thimphu with 4 BCF teaching friends.  It was a wet, dreary day and we had hoped to trek or hike or have a spectacular break as we all had 4 or 5 days off for the elections.  We headed up to the Tango monastery at the end of the Thimphu valley.

Shabdrung

Lucy and I in the monastery 

Sarah and Matt inside, monks serving tea

       Walked in the rain and there were  hundreds of Bhutanese.  It was rainy and muddy.  We had umbrellas and were drippy.  When we arrived the monks asked us to come in for tea to a large room with the other visitors.  As the room filled up it was obvious that something auspicious was going to occur.  There was a blessing by the resident lama, who is, we learned later, quite young and very special.  We lined up after asking the Bhutanese how to approach and bow and were blessed.  We then visited the altar rooms where the monks were chanting and had a lovely walk down. 

     The ride back to Thimphu was not so lovely as we crammed into a local bus, the ones that are affectionately called the "vomit comets" and had the full on experience.  Which we survived.  No I was not sick, but the children at my feet were. 

 We headed up to Nancy's where we met a ministry of education official and talked teaching, shared a bottle of wine while watching Mr. Bhutan on television and ate some shepherd's pie (yum).  Then to Mark's house for a bit of a party, more wine, g & t's and an amazing dinner.  Not bad !! :)

Sunday we breakfasted together, then headed to Paro . . . back to the Gangtey Palace.  Walked down the valley to the Kyichu Monastery, which is supposedly the oldest in Bhutan.  Lovely walk.

Kyichu

Today we went to Takseng, or Tiger's Nest.  There are thousands of photos on the internet and I thought it might be a bit too touristy, but it was rainy and foggy and an incredible walk up.  Just beautiful.  The prayer flags, the forests, the rhododendrons, the small chortens on the way up and the structure itself.  The meditation caves, the altars.  I thought this might be the only opportunity I would have to walk there, but I can now imagine taking all of my family visitors to see it.  

    

Gangtey Palace

     I am feeling like a princess, seriously, once again.  I decided to really take a break for my voice, so came to Paro and am staying at the Gangtey Palace. 
Check it out at:  http://www.gangteypalace.net
     Hot showers, amazing view of the Paro valley and great little bar with 180 degree view.
I came with Nancy Strickland last night and had dinner with 2 Canadians who are here doing workshops for educators.  One of them was a prof of mine at U of Calgary for my masters. 
     I did not bring my camera and am regretting it.  So have to capture all of these beautiful views and flowers and interesting objects in my mind. 
     I am eating heartily and had dessert for 2 meals in a row.  Meat 3 of 4 meals!! Asparagus is in season here so yummy in soups and "butter fried".  A great way to pamper myself and get my voice back.   
Doesn't all of that sound princess-like? 

Lost Voice

I have lost my voice so have a short, silent holiday.  I am not sure what I will do with my time.  I know 2 things:  if I go back to school I will not rest and if I meet up with anyone I know I will talk too much. So a nice quiet retreat type of hotel experience with hot showers for steam sounds like my best  bet.  Internet too. ..   I will keep you updated as to where I decide to explore :)  

Weekend in Tshimalakha

   Dave (Canadian teacher from Pakshika) came to visit me on Saturday afternoon.  I cleaned up the joint a bit and walked down to meet him by the highway.  I immediately realized that we were going to take "some time" to walk through town when I saw him in the distance surrounded by schoolboys.  Two chillups (foreigners) in town.  I introduced him to all of the shopkeepers that I know in the market, which took a while.  Then the movie let out so all of the students wanted to meet him.  We retired to my place and the phone rang more than ever before :)  

     Cooked a thai curry and CHOCOLATE CAKE.  It turned out really well in the rice cooker.  I just wish I could figure out how not to burn the outside of the cake.  It sticks to the small aluminum pot and makes quite a mess. It was wonderful chatting in Canadian English with another teacher.  Even though I barely have a voice and probably should have been resting it.
This morning we walked almost 2 hours to the dzong and back through Tshimisham.  He snoozed and I marked.  We had lunch with the VP next door as he was having a puja - an annual cleansing by the monks, or as the VP explained "removing all of the obstacles for the coming year".
Before Dave arrived I was writing a letter home and said that I could not really imagine being anywhere else these days except right here.  Dave pointed out that I have a pretty cool relationship with the villagers.  We soaked up wonderful views and also cruised the shops.  I finally broke down and bought a pressure cooker.  It will make life much easier and hopefully whistle at me so I do not leave the pot on the stove and burn my meal.  This afternoon I hung out at Sonam's shop for a rain and hail storm.  Her husband was there and I chatted with him and their son who is in PP - pre-primary -like Kindergarten.  Read all of his homework with him. 
Tonight is probably the biggest thunderstorm I have seen yet.  There were metal garbage cans rolling down the hill in the wind and pieces of metal roofing flapping by.  Power went out twice.  Lightening hit beside the girl's hostel.  The most amazing thing is how quickly the power is restored.

Us inside the rooms that I rarely use.  I have a desk now that is by the big window.  

Saturday morning I took photos of the young boys in my townhouse on their way to primary school.  Are the ghos not so gorgeous? 

A shot of the 2 unused rooms in my place 

Adventures in Banking

I am not sure I explained my trip to the bank to open an account.   The first thing you encounter is the posted list of members, their account number and their balance.  In the area where there are tellers there are 2 baskets, each with a different type of passbook.  So people with accounts come in, pick up their passbook, go to the teller, do their banking, then place their passbook in a public basket.

Last week I left my bank card in the machine accidentally.  I was pretty worried. Luckily the machines retrieve your card after 30 seconds.  Then I had to track it down.  Currently it is the hands of a person who works at the bank who is living with a teacher at my school.  The teacher will return my card tomorrow.

Today in the vegetable market I said hello to the bank manager..  He asked if he could see my card.  I said actually I think you might know that I left it in the machine.  He then called to make sure it was on it's way to mea and that I did not have to go to the bank to get it.

There has only been currency in the country since the 1960's :)

Important notice

I took off my wool long-johns today(tops and bottoms)  Second day, this could be a trend :)

Adventures in Plumbing

The pipe in the bathroom burst it's plug on Tuesday night.  A 3/4 inch pipe spewing water into the bedroom.  Luckily not my bedroom.  Fortunately I am a bit handy.  Went to the woodpile got a chink of wood and a small log/  Pounded the wood into the pipe using the log as a hammer.  Since then it has burst only once I and my repair job is even better.  Funny thing, the pipe that let go was spraying water all along.  Now the bathroom is much drier, although not dry. 

The open drains on the floor are about 4 to 6 inches around, concrete.  Hard to tell the original diameter and the concrete has weathered poorly.  Yesterday I caught a glimpse of a drain inhabitant.  Looked an awful lot like a large rat to me.  Put bricks over the drains. Today I was told how to deal with rats, that I will have them in my new place too :)  I think the best way to deal with them is not to leave any food or garbage out.  It seems to have worked here.  There was lots of sign when I arrived as there is often food on the altars that everyone has in their homes.  Clean up the food and they go elsewhere - the pickings are better.

Daily Life

Woke up to the busy sounds of the girls heading off to study at 6:15 am.  The hostel students have 2 study blocks where they go to class, sit and do homework and studying.  No novels.  No talking.  Each block is an hour long.  The first occurs prior to breakfast.  Their bell wakes them at 5 am for washing.  After study they go to breakfast, then back to the hostel for cleaning.  Afternoon study is around 5:30 pm, before supper.  After supper there is also evening study, which is in their hostel room. 

My day still starts with a walk, then breakfast and a wash.  I have started washing my hair in the mornings instead of at night.  It was too cold before, but is warming up.  I leave my place around 8 am to be at assembly by 8:20.  It is a 2 minute walk, but lots to do along the way. We have to go upstairs to the principal's office and sign ourselves into the logbook every day. 

Food is a big part of my day - apart from teaching.  Today I had asparagus so made buckwheat cakes for breakfast (perfect fried bananas on top) and ate them for lunch with the greens.  Tonight I made my favourite comfort food - mac and cheese. Asparagus side. The commercially produced cheese is like Velveeta, but not as orange.  The noodles I use are vermicelli rice noodles that come wrapped in newspaper, then orange paper and tied with a thin string.  I have not purchased meat to cook at home but am working up the courage.  Chicken.  Maybe.  Meat comes from India where it is slaughtered, then trucked in non-refrigerated trucks which are driven FAST along the crazy highway. 

Sunday Pedestrian Day

Sunday Pedestrian Day 

The first Sunday of the month is pedestrian day in all towns and cities.  It is, I think, a green and cost saving initiative.  

I spent this Sunday in Phuntsholing on the border of India.  I went by bus on Saturday afternoon.  It is about a three hour bus ride, 2 1/2 hour car ride from here.  At the very end of the drive you spend almost an hour descending switchbacks from the Bhutanese Himalaya to the Indian plains.  There is a large river valley with an extremely huge river in it.  It flows through Haa Dzongkag from China and out into India. I arrived in the dark so the lights were pretty.  I left during the day and the geography is quite stunning.  Photos are unfortunately hazy. 

Arriving in the dark, I went to the 4 or 5 star Druk hotel.  A Canadian colleague had told me it would cost about 1,500 nultrum, the equivalent of about 30 Canadian dollars.  It was more than double, which seems like a cheap hotel, but is one fifth of a teacher's monthly salary.  I looked around briefly, but was alone at night and had been told to be careful.  So I treated myself.  Supper was lamb and vegetable curries.  Tasted exactly like the curry in Nelson BC at Baba's restaurant.

Internet time, hot shower, television, crisp white sheets.  I felt pretty special.  No dogs howling . .  could not really sleep.  The shower was great, but not as awesome as I had expected.  I was just as content tonight to wash off the grime of travel with my bucket bath.  Actually it may have been more satisfying.  Does this mean I am finally acclimatizing?  

Speaking of climate, the temperature in Phutsholing was about 30 degrees in the morning and hotter in the afternoon.  I was quite happy to warm up after feeling as though my fingers were going to break off in the cold wind while the students were trying out for athletics on Saturday afternoon.  Athletics - the running tryouts were on the paved road. Some ran barefoot, some in cool converse runners.  High jump and long jump:  students used agricultural tools to dig up the soccer pitch a bit.  When they fell they cut their hands - no dramatics.  Really tough. 

Sunday morning I woke up, ate a cheese and mushroom omelette at the hotel and shopped for food that I cannot get here.  Wandered around the multiple stores looking at STUFF and bought nothing for my house, only food.   Ventured briefly into Jaigon, India. There is a fence and a security person but no checking of papers.  Everyone that goes further into Bhutan gets checked at the Immigration Check Point down the road.  After pedestrian day, India seemed even noisier and busier than it might have.  So much STUFF  for sale.  I went to a restaurant recommended by colleagues here for lamb and sat down.  I was immediately joined by a Bhutanese teacher, Sonam from Punakha, who recognized me.  We had met earlier in the school year.  He bought me lunch and drove me home. Because we met accidentally twice, he believes that we had a strong connection in one of our previous lives.  I work with his sister, Kezang, so had tea with them when we arrived back in Tshimilakha. 

Another yummy meal at home with asparagus that probably comes from Thimphu north of here, but I bought it in Phuntsholing.  Well travelled.

Rambling notes:  I also ran into two students of the school that recognized me while wandering the streets of Phunsholing.  They are in class 12 so I had no idea who they are.    . . . Kezang, Sonam's sister has her younger brother living with her.  He helped me carry my groceries home.  "I'm in your club ma'am".  Rats, I  thought I could recognize most of my students, although I have only met the club twice.    . . .  I was the only white person I saw all weekend.    . . . I love mini-adventures.      . . . Dave, from Pakshika tried to join me but did not get a ride.  It would have been nice to hang out together today.       . . . I really think I must have been a nomad in a previous life.  I am so excited to roll off down the road to somewhere new.  Would also be excited to hike somewhere new too.  Sitting still I can only do for a few days.  . . . The funny white "mould" that is famous here has started to grow on one wall where it is damp due to a leak (see: Adventures in Plumbing).  It looks like cotton candy, grows a centimetre or so per day and I sweep it up every day or so.  Where I have swept, it grows on the floor.  I have been told that if you go away during summer break, it is a lot of work cleaning up this mould as it will grow several inches deep on everything during rainy season.  Am really not looking forward to that.  

Phuntsholing

Saturday

Great couple of days teaching.  Am getting pretty "attached" to the kids.  And making friends and feeling generally better.

Am in Phuntsholing for the night - shopping mecca and  warmer.  Nite all

Happy Day today

     Happy day - I enjoyed teaching today.  Am really enjoying the kids from time to time, when they are not driving me crazy!!  What a profession.
     I went to Tshimasham to the post office to mail a parcel to someone special who has a birthday coming up and there were 2 parcels for me!  One from mom with tights and pants and one from Jan and Ernie with treats.  I unceremoniously opened a fruit and nut bar and wolfed it down as I was hungry from the walk!   Thanks for those!!!

April 3rd

Parsley?? What is the verdict? 

I cannot believe I am still having roller coaster emotions.  When I really examine these feelings, they are mostly low when I am not feeling well and otherwise I am doing just fine.  I did not sleep much last night but forced myself to go for a walk.  It is usually beautiful in the mornings, so this seems to be my best plan.  Last night the storms were incredible once again and as I am writing now the streets are overflowing from what I would call flash floods. It is raining so very hard and lots of thunder and lightening.  Someone told me the thunder is even more impressive elsewhere (the East perhaps?)  but I cannot believe it.  Rob - you would love these electrical storms.  After a lack of zzz's I was a bit weak this morning on all fronts - physically and a complete lack of determination.  Getting out the door was achieved with simple willpower.  And it was worth it.  Although I was exhausted all day, I taught 3 great lessons, was evaluated by the principal, had a post-evaluation conference and had my Media and Democracy club.  Afterwards I was to help with selection of school representatives for athletics - running today, jumping tomorrow and throwing on Friday.  Cancelled due to rain for today so went to Chimi Pem's for tea.  

I wish I could record the cracks of thunder and the pounding of the rain on the metal roof!!!  Everyone comments on my small "cute", "tiny" umbrella.  Theirs ares all golf umbrella sized. 

Chimi Pem told me about the last elections where she and 2 other teachers were election officers in Logchina.  A "4 day" walk they did in 15 hours.  Stayed in the village huts for 4 days and worked.  This is where she and Palden would like to take me during this year's elections.  I doubt I will be able to go as foreigners are not allowed to participate in elections and with many teachers working as officers, I will probably be needed at school.  I can always hope.  Cross my fingers. 

Many queries as to the state of my new accommodation.  Looks great, still no word on the date that I will shift.  Rumour has it that it will be this week, however I am not holding my breath.  

Tonight there is a staff going away supper for Tshewong, husband of my friend Sonam Choden who left for Dagana a couple of weeks ago.  He has been a great friend also, very helpful and kind.  I love their boys.  I do not think I have shared how some of the families are with the children. This group of fathers are wonderful.  When they get home they head directly to pick up the babies and play with them.  Mostly the kids have loads of cousins and friends around, but  everyone rolls around on the floor or bed together for awhile before the kids run off to play.  Kids are comfortable with the adults they know and seem to have favourites amongst all of the grown ups that come to visit.  The single women all take turns playing with the babies at dinner functions too.  Babies are not usually there for the duration of the event, but are often brought over by a niece or nanny to feed or to connect with moms if they need to.  One little boy - about 4 or 5 years old I think, is the most serious boy I have ever seen.  During the school Rimdro, he sat most of the morning with the monks, up on the stage quietly participating.  His reading when he was born said he will become an important monk.  Interesting! 

Enough said for one posting.  Thanks everyone for reading so much!! There are almost 4,000 hits on my blog :) 

multiple posts

Staff Meetings.

       To all of my teaching friends.  Be thankful when your staff meeting ends by 5 pm.  We had our first monthly Staff Council Meeting tonight.  Classes were shortened so we could start at 3 pm, classes normally end at 4.  The meeting was delayed until 3:30 and finished at 6:45.  There were 15 items on the agenda, the last being nomination and voting for the Academic Head.  The teacher who is currently doing the job is leaving this week.  This particular high school of about 800 students has a Principal, one VP, an Academic Head and a Non-Academic Head.  Some similar-sized schools have 3 vp's instead.  The vice principals do not earn more money than teachers, they are all paid on the same scale.  So is the principal, although housing is provided on site for principals. In one discussion during our meeting I learned that as government employees, civil servants, we are on call 24 hours per day.  Not literally, but if needed we are expected to be available.  When we leave our site, the Principal needs to know.  Even on Sunday, our one day off. 

      

Feelings

       Woke up this morning to a gorgeous day.  Things have greened up and the sky was bluebird.  Stunning, a bit of wind but just enough to keep the clouds away.   I guess I am lucky I once lived in Pincher Creek because when I really think about it, the wind was blowing pretty hard this morning :) 

       Had some moments of fear as I began my day, mostly fear of not being able to do this through the summer, the fog, the rain, the fog, the cold, the viruses,  everything.  Just when I had found a real sense of determination, I felt fear. I am wondering if the fear is of my own ability (or lack thereof) or of the obstacles ahead.

       My determination got me to school, through all of my classes with humour and (I hope) some learning, a long staff meeting and dinner.  I know that sounds like a normal day, but I am fighting this "viral fever" and it seemed like a lot to me.  Boiling water for a hair wash and body bath, to wash my towels, to wash dishes and to cook with all add to the length of my day.  I am also being observed by the principal this week and am not fully prepared.  

       April Fool's today and the students love to trick the teachers.  I tricked all of my classes.  Had them convinced they had a large grammar test tomorrow.  They really laughed when I said April Fools.  

       I just had another nice dinner out.  Tshewong, Sonam's husband, is leaving in the next couple of days.  I will miss him and the boys. The woman who cooked did a 2 1/2 year chef's course in India.  She is now upgrading her high school marks and living with her brother who is a teacher.  She is keen to help me with recipes.  Tonight we had a yummy sort of Nutrella - which is chunks of dried tofu that you rehydrate.  I have tried cooking them with moderate success.  Her's were delicious.