First Illness

     Woke up on Wednesday morning felling great - took my short walk up to the ridge to see the Dzong.  Was feeling pretty proud of myself for keeping to a routine where I boil water and am very careful cooking eating, brushing my teeth and dishwashing. Got to assembly and thought I was going to puke everywhere.  A bit terrified as I did not know where I would puke!!  As I was pretty queasy I went home to bed.  Slept, did not puke but had a giant headache, achey body and super dizzy.  Went to the hospital to see the doctor, as we need to check in if we get sick. I was given painkillers and a sedative.  He thinks it is a viral infection which I understood to be wild or whilr infection.  Because I went with a staff member, everyone had to check in on me.  Bhutanese do not leave you alone if you are ill. At one point I had 5 teachers a baby and 2 principals in my place checking on me.  Sonam Choden, my friend who has not left yet, went home, made me rice porridge, brought it to me hot and sat with me while I ate.  I did not feel like eating but they believe you will lose your strength if you do not eat.  I guess I could have gone to work today, but still had a fever this morning and felt really slow and weak.  Have slept and am making granola on the top of my stove.  It is working, but takes a lot of gas I think.  Porridge is quicker and easier to make.  I also made yogurt in the rice cooker for the second time. Each day I heat water and wash a few clothes also.  

     Currently the sky is a beautiful blue and the wind is blowing - fairly hard. I wish I could record the sound of it whipping through the house. It is much warmer out than when I arrived and I no longer feel as though I need to huddle around my heater.  

     Update on History - yesterday morning I was given 6 blocks, last night I no longer had them.

Frustration to Fun

I started my day in a different classroom as they were repairing windows in my home class.  Then all class 9 students had to go to the assembly ground as they had decided to collapse a grade 9 class and add students to all of the other sections.  So now my classes will be between 34 and 40 students.  In this process I went from teaching 4 blocks to 3 which means 24 classes per week to 18.  Fine.  Problem - the schedule.  After much discussion and explaining I thought I understood where I should be.  Problem #2 not everyone understood the same as me.  So I would be teaching and kicked out of my room by the TP - training teachers.  I was so confused and frustrated the Academic Head was tired of seeing me, and I came VERY close to tears.  Meanwhile some teachers are teaching, some are not as the timetable is changing, therefore students can sit alone in their classroom for hours with nothing to do:) 

New teachers arrived but they still have no one to teach History.  I said I would so had to endure hours of discussion about who will teach which grade.  Finally I will not be teaching History.  I think.  For now.   Perhaps. 

This evening was an all staff farewell to a really well liked and active teacher.  Someone I do not know very well, but had seen videos of teachers dancing for teacher's day.  He was the head choreographer, also very active with students and on staff.  There were lots of speeches prior to eating yummy food.  Then we all danced and sang traditional Bhutanese songs.  Too much fun.  Hard to describe.  I love the music and the dances, they all tell a story which of course I do not understand.  I cannot really sing, but try to form some sounds to begin my language education! A video of the evening would have been nice, but I don't think it would convey the feeling in the room. I danced with all of the children and really enjoyed myself in a mellow sort of way.  I think they appreciate my jumping in and trying things.  Lots of questions about my age, my family and what I am doing here.  Hard to answer really.  

Happiness is a place, this place

View towards Gasa in the Punakha Valley.  Those are LARGE  mountains

In the literature we received when we arrived there was a tourism promotional package with a dvd entitled "Happiness is a Place".  This past weekend I spent with 5 colleagues travelling to Punakha and Gasa hot springs.  My mantra was: happiness is this place.  We were stuffed into small mini vans, sometimes in the trunk or on the floor, travelling dreadful roads but the scenery and weather and friends were all spectacular. 

On the road to GAsa,  Sarah from Miane, Sarah from TO, Brick from Colorado, Arwen from Australia

Dave from Canada t the Hot Springs

 Laughing about the how to's of difficult toilets, with live demonstrations after several glasses of K5 whisky (locally brewed coronation special) and cooking fantastic meals using local spices and foods.  Dreadful lunches as we stopped at little canteens to find only mango juice, beer and spicy chips. . . walking because the locals said it was not far. . . and finding a wonderful taxi driver to take us the final 7 kilometres.  Hot springs in a 
giant gravel pit as there was a flash flood a couple of years ago and the beautiful forest was washed away leaving the gravel bed of the river.   At the hot springs there is a pedestrian suspension bridge to nowhere as the people have closed it off. It seems that no one returns when they cross over so the belief is that one dies if one crosses.  
Our drive from Gasa to Punakha was interrupted by tea and "Baby Toasts" at the taxi driver's home.  In Thimphu we ate western (hamburgers and ice cream)  and I picked up one of the parcels that I had sent on December 3rd. Dave Plant (my Chukha buddy who teaches south of me at Pakshika) and I got a ride part way in a TATA truck - pulling 12 tons of calcium carbonate.  It was SLOW but fun. 

The dashboard of the Tata truck, long slow ride 

On the road to the Hot Springs 

Morning Assembly

I woke to a beautiful sunny day with snow capped mountains.  The photos do not show how truly amazing the day was.  

     

After my walk I had a tour of the preparation area for the food in the mess hall.  Never seen anything like it.  Massive pots to cook and serve. 

     Morning assembly is fascinating. Very disciplined and I find it quite beautiful.  The chanting of prayer, the seriousness and the formality of the speeches.  I was asked on the spot to speak.  I was not as formulas those who followed me but the students are very enthusiastic to have me.  Everyone in their speeches talked about the CHSS "family"  I guess for boarders this is their family.  

Still chaos in the classrooms.  We unlocked the doors today and my homeroom had been used for the practical Chemistry exam.  There were also text books for 2 grade levels - 20 to 30 texts per kid for all of their subjects  and GARBAGE of all types. We got it swept out and organized.  I managed to hand out books, collect fees and get some desks and chairs.  

Students practiced their dances all afternoon for the cerebration of the King's birthday which will happen on Thursday morning.  The dances are beautiful.  I hope I will be able to capture a tiny bit on video an post it. 

My evening walk today was hand in hand with 3 and 4 year olds and their older siblings or cousins or friends - hard to tell.  We had English lessons and songs (5 green and speckled frogs) and Dzongka lessons for me.  I am all ready with my greetings for my class.  I only hope I can remember to say it all correctly tomorrow!!

I wandered through the renovation of my quarters - it is very cute, progressing quite quickly but heaps left to do.  I get the sense that they are re-doing everything except the bathroom which could truly use some work.  It will be a real little (actually fairly large) home, and very upscale for this village.  Geyser (a hot water tank) and mosaic floors (tile I think). 

Cooking

       Here are some photos of the kitchen.  Not too many as it is a bit grim.  The water filter - the top layer you can see the colour of the water after it has settled out but before it has been filtered.  I was a bit too smug and content with the clear water I had before the rain.  I must say the farmers and everyone with a garden (that would be just about everyone) is happy as the ground was so dry and hard prior to this rain.  As soon as it let up the gardens and fields were full of people preparing the soil to plant.

       News from Thimphu - more snow today than they have seen in years.  Apparently Dochu-la pass was not "passable" this afternoon.

I visited the student mess this morning where they cook.  The pots are larger than anything I have seen in my life.  wood fires to heat up the butter tea and hot water.  The hostels are not heated and it was COLD last night.  Students were warming their hands in their bowls and mugs.  They bring their own dishes.  Breakfast:  fried rice. Lunch dal and kewa datse.  Supper they have eggs or meat twice a week with rice.  Also they get cabbage every day for vitamins.  Apparently the food at this school is better than most.  I know the cooks are good cooks because I have had some of their meals.  The supply of food is what is expensive and each school is allotted an amount in $$ per student. School agriculture programs supplement the diets with greens and other food they grow. 

       I found a Harry Potter DVD in my disc drive Sunday. . .  no idea that I had it  watched a few minutes :)

Sunday

Fog rising above the girl's hostel

Sunday . . .

       A lot of rain in the night and snow on the hills out the window. The rainy season has arrived.

The water is running mud and apparently will do so all summer.

Purchased a water filter and another bucket.  My water system starts with running the tap water through a tea towel (thanks to Arwen in Gasa for that idea), then letting it settle in a bucket, scooping settled water off the top and into another bucket to settle some more.  For drinking and eating the settled water gets boiled and then into a filter that has 3 systems: ceramic, 6 layers of carbon etc and a stone.

       I set up my "desk" in my room and re-did the curtains and clothesline that I had set up late the first night I was here. I put  the table in front of the window and I am watching the girls' hostel building disappear completely in the fog.  Had hoped to clean but the water is so muddy today I do not see any point.  Washed some clothes in the murky stuff and am wondering what washing my hair will be like later!

       I am about to do some planning work for school. I will be teaching English 9, but I do not know how many classes.  A big wait and see as we are apparently receiving more teachers "in some time".

       I am STILL having some difficulty comprehending that I am here for a year.  I am enjoying cooking as a bit of a distraction.  Had papadams last night with my dal.  This morning I made buckwheat pancakes and ate them with peanut butter and some with fried bananas. YUM.  I am even eating porridge in the mornings and enjoying it. For the past 3 mornings I have walked at 6:30 am for 45 to 60 minutes.

looking down the valley towards Gedu



Women out working the soil after the big rain



       I am having hard time with names although I think I have 5 or 6  teachers straight.  The sounds are so different and I always have to get to know someone in order to remember a name.  Trying hard - I write them down 2 or 3 times but am still timid saying them as I make so many mistakes.  It will be good to practice with the student names, as there will be lots of them.   The funny thing is there are not many names in Bhutan.  The same names are used over and aver again, boys and girls can even use the same names.  There are no family names, but most people have 2 names to help differentiate.  Families and friends call each other "uncle" or "baby", they rarely use each other's names!

       Love and thoughts to all of my family and friends in Canada. I do read my email and appreciate any news.

Student reporting

It rained in the night so is cold out. Or rather cold in.

Yesterday I visited my friend in her shop and her younger sister is home from university in India and likes to walk. We walked the kilometre or two to the next town and back yesterday and again this morning at 6:30 am.

After my walk yesterday I bought green beans and carrots . . . was wandering past the mess hall after having talked to students all over town. They were reporting to the hostel(boarding rooms) and as it was the first night permitted to be out and about in town, purchasing last minute buckets, uniforms, books and other odds and ends. A teacher was outside the mess hall and asked if I was coming to the wedding. I know nothing about it but was invited along. The son of one of the caretakers was being married in a Hindu - Bhutanese style wedding I think. They had prepared a dinner for the teachers and staff of the school. We wished the bride and groom good luck, they went back to their celebration and the teachers ate. I enjoyed myself. The celebrations went on out my back door all night!

At 5:30 am the whistle/bell rings in the girls' hostel and they parade out one group at a time to the toilet block then up to the mess hall. A very regimented life they lead.

Our first assembly was this morning. Unfortunately it had rained in the night and rained on the assembly so it was shortened. Students prayed (chanted) and sang, then teachers were introduced. I received a big round of applause. All very solemn and yet quite beautiful.

Then we went to the meeting room for admissions. A long line of teachers – the admissions committee, the school secretary, the matron, the warden, then us the class teachers. Students were processed along the line then we signed them into our homeroom classes. Very time consuming. Only half the grade 9 students are here I think.

I ate the dal I had made last night, then snoozed all afternoon. Andrea the Australian teacher who is here with her family called and she is having a very difficult time. She is in a very small school and community and having difficulty with the basics, like wood for the fire (cold, cold region) and finding any curriculum resources at her school. People do not seem to be very helpful so her family seems to be fending for themselves. I am finding it quite a bit easier than they are. Amazing how we adapt. I went from feeling desperately isolated to coping with the challenges. (for today) I have to admit I am in a town and not a village so there is a lot available to me here. In fact I am going to Sonam Choden's to use the internet later today . . . to post this:)

It is pouring out so I will delay my outing.

First day of school and Valentine's Day

Feb 13, 2013

First day of school  . . . a day in the life of a Bhutanese High School teacher

Woke up to a glorious sunny day.  Did my little yoga practice.  Scrubbed the bathroom floor.  Washed hair and body out of a bucket.  Made breakfast: an omelet and some yogurt and mandarin orange (currently in season). Put on my kira (the skirt), wanju (the blouse)  and toego (the jacket).  The blouse and jacket are fastened with a koma

(brooch).  Rushed to be ready for 8:15 as the VP said we would go together.  Teachers were to report at 9 am.  We did not leave here until 9.  Teachers milled about for an hour and wrote our “joining reports”, a letter stating we are reporting for work for the year.  Handwritten. Some wrote in the beautiful Dzongka script, similar to Tibetan.

I was asked how I like Bhutan and was told all about how foggy it is here and that I will have many leeches everywhere, including inside the house.  Lots of salt will be required.

We all went inside to  a new-ish room called their collaborative classroom. It has computers around the outside and a conference like sut up in the middle with a projector and screen.  Spent the day signing up and discussing – teaching assignments, house leaders, homeroom class leaders, clubs and club leaders.

Tea with milk and sugar was served in the morning and in the afternoon.  For lunch I was invited to Sonam Choden and Tsering's home.  Dried red chile emma datse.  I would say VERY spicy hot.  They are a young couple, enthusiastic and dedicated teachers.  They have 3 young sons and spent 2 years in Australia doing their masters.  Unfortunately she has applied for a VP position and they may be transferred in the next week.  There were 16 positions this year, so she could be sent anywhere. They will find a posting for her husband too.

At the end of the day I walked for about an hour.  Aussie Andrea from Chume called – she had a difficult day.  We have been keeping in touch by phone and it has really helped me.

Cooked supper – I have real swiss cheese from Bumthang – until it runs out, so made broccoli and cheese sauce using my buckwheat flour as a base.

I have been told twice that the large buildings that are no longer inhabited on the outskirts of town are haunted.  I truly believe it because 2 days ago when I walked by the awful feeling about this place began.  I was also told today that there is a problem with H1N1 here and to be careful eating eggs.  I did read on the internet 2 stories about slaughtering chickens in this area because of bird flu.  If anyone knows more about this, please let me know.

The kids do not seem very physically active here.  The large soccer field is not usable because of drainage problems.  Right now in the very dry season there is both standing  and running water across the field.  Cannot imagine what it would be like in the wet season.   I am wondering if there is some international NGO that I could apply to for funding to put in proper drainage and a playing surface.

Must go heat up some water, wash dishes and clean up all food . . . Then I will probably read and sleep.  

Hope everyone's day was as peaceful as mine:)

February 14   Happy Valentine's day.

Could not upload this so will continue . . .

I had a haunted night's sleep, but an ok day at school.  The proceedings are mostly in Dzongkha, but the information is projected in English.  So I get the gist, but it is exhausting. Today was deciding on all sorts of things that took all day.  For example we discussed from 3 to 5 the list of students nominated for captains for the year.  Democracy in action, but slow to do.  At least everyone is heard.

  The friends I have made, Sonam Choden (f) and Tsewong will be leaving.  She just found out that she is successful in her application for a VP position.  They are a dynamite team and will be missed at the school.  Great teachers with lots of energy.

I also understand that the flat I am in will not have anyone move into it as the building has been condemned.  I would love to know what qualifies in Bhutan . . .

 

Photos around school and Gedu

Dave on our hike  Gedu



My current house - upper level - towels drying



Looking down at basketball court





View below me of girl's hostel (dorms)



Gedu hike above town

First day of school

There is internet at school. 
My toilet stopped giving me a shower every time I use it. 
I woke up to a beautiful sunny day today. 
National dress is handsome and beautiful. 
The teachers are funny. 
No mice in my hair last night. 

So a good day. 

I was immediately warned of the fog, cold and leeches that will be everywhere, but hey, one day at a time. 

In Bhutan the teachers usually report 5 days before students show up for planning.  This year there was Lhosar (new year) and we only have 3 days.  First day - signing up for the courses you will teach, discussing the timetable, signing up for clubs, home rooms.  All done by consensus.  I am not sure it would work at home.  Apart from sounding like chaos in the staff room, there does not seem to be the overt power play that I would imagine at home.  Although there are obvious "players"  they do listen to each other.  Because it is done with everyone present there are no deals being made. I may be naive and missing a lot in the dialect that I do not understand, however I do see universal behaviours that are easily recognizable and politeness  is one of them. 

I have some photos and will post when I figure out how to connect my computer to this system.  

Gedu

Had a lovely afternoon with David Plant thenew "sir David" in Pakshika, my closest neighbour.  We hiked above Gedu after Internet cafe and lunch.  Jungle, caves, prayer flags and giant trees.  Hope to get internet going at my school in a week or so and will post photos.
Goodbye again.  Currently there is not internet in Tsmilakha, my town. 

ps  thanks for all the views on this blog.... over 1000 :)

Tsimilakha

Well I live in a town  - not a village.  In housing that was built in the 60's for the Hydro project.  Currently they are renovating one for me to move into.  The roof got almost finished yesterday but it looks a couple of weeks at least - the contractor says 10 days to me, 3 weeks to the principal.  Welcome to Bhutan:) 

The view is nice out my balcony. 
I am struggling because I feel as though I have been dropped into a third world industrial town.,  Which I guess I have !! 

Photo of upper Tsmilakha

My housing is four-plexes not these big buildings. 

Travels

Andrea's house in Punakha 

Compacted mud house being built by hand

I have been to Gasa - Bjishong school, Punakha again and then back over the pass to Thimphu last night.  This morning I go to Chukha.  Here are some photos of my adventures.  I hope to have time to write one day soon:)

Arwen at her home at Bjishong school

Morning view from Arwen's - VERY  big mountains in the sun

Primrose I think 

Punakha

Here we are at a hotel in Punaha / Wongdi  WITH INTERNET:) 

 Travel day over Dochula pass full view of the Himalaya mountains. 

Arrived at an upscale hotel.  This morning I revelled in what I thought might be my very last shower for a long time and Now here we are - shower and hot water.  I am not actually sure if I stay here tonight or go to Punakha to stay with another teacher.  Here are some photos of the day. 

Loading the trucks and buses. 

Visit to Punakha Dzong

Buddha Tree 

Leaving Thimphu

Today was our last day in the capital.  I hiked up to the Buddha before breakfast for the third time.  We had excellent orientation sessions, great wandering around doing last minute things and a pizza dinner.  Last western food for . . . perhaps 11 months.  Met great people. 

I will be going to Whangdi and Punakha for a few days prior to reporting to school.  My apartment is not ready so I will not have internet access until I get to school and do not know how good that will be. So after Tuesday morning (Monday night for you) I will be without contact. 

Take care of each other. 

Car-less Sunday

     Once a month there is a Sunday with no cars in the city of Thimphu.  8 am to 5 pm.  It is delightful to wander the streets without the business of cars.  I went to the market shopped around a bit then walked up and around the residential area.  Found the sports centre which actually has a nice swimming pool.  Closed for winter.  November 15 to February 28th.  No one there.  Funny how the kids were playing all over the streets, including the major through ways.  Biking, soccer, badminton.  
     We all got together for supper again - we have been eating at various restaurants around town for about a week instead of at this hotel.  Tonight was Indian food - sag paneer (spinach yum), a chicken curry, tomatoes stuffed with a chick pea mixture and another paneer dish.  Absolutely yummy. 
     Brick and I wandered into an upscale hotel and had a drink on the way back to the hotel.  He is a skier/physics teacher from Colorado. I had a martini!  He had K5- the local whisky.  The bar is new in the hotel - only 2 days old.  The bartender said it used to be a "western" bar but now it is more Bhutanese - dark wood, fireplace, it was a very cosy room. 
We have one more day here in Thimphu and then we disperse. I will not have internet access for a while - perhaps 10 days.  

Sarah and I at the Buddha, Thimphu in the background.

Brick and I. 

     

More photos

OK  I cannot help posting these photos.  I miss my friends and family and want everyone to see what I am up to.  I will be moving to Chukha on Tuesday and have no internet for a week or more. 

Simtokha Dzong

This afternoon I visited Simtokha Dzong with 3 colleagues - Sarah, Dave and Colin.  Here are some photos . . . more comments later.















http://www.windhorsetours.com/sights/sights_view.php?country=bhutan&placeid=261
For more information on the Dzong. 

My Saturday Morning Hike

Cooking Class

     Last night half the group went to the BCF office where we were initiated into the secrets of Bhutanese cooking.  No sugar, no sweets.  Lots of chillies. We ate dhal, red rice, a curry of vegetables including green beans, peas, cauliflower, a potato, chilli and cheese based dish (kewa datse) and sag or mustard greens.  Every dish had chillies in it (except the rice).  There was also a salad that consisted of chilies, tomatoes and datse (cheese). 
Ema datse is the national dish - chilies and dried cottage like cheese.  

    
     It was a fantastic meal - really delicious.  Even though the food has been good and some of the restaurants excellent, home made food is so much better!  Especially with expert cooks:)  The kewa datse was so creamy and the spices in the curries were perfect - just enough to have a bit of curry taste, but really the dominant flavour was the vegetables.  
    I apologize for the quality of my photos.  I am having some battery issues at the present time.  Hoping to get a new battery tomorrow. 

National dress - me in my Kira. 
The skirt wraps and folds around you and is tied at the waist with a belt that reminds me of the "ceinture fléchée" of Bonhomme Carnaval.  I got "cheater" kira that have velcro and a hook.  The other ones looked too complicated for teaching.  The top is a bit boxy - room for warm clothing underneath.  Much more comfortable to wear than I had anticipated and warm too as the folds in the front give you 3 layers of fabric. 

Here are photos of Senge and Remie - Senge is a monk who is originally from England and Remie is the 2 year old Australian boy.